Mumbai

The City of Seven Islands

the Cave Monasteries of Mumbai

During time of the early Buddhist sangha’s settlement in Maharashtra, the city of Mumbai was a much different place. Long before the colonial British Raj in India, the area we call Mumbai was an archipelago, a collection of seven different islands jetting into the Arabian Sea. It’s main island, Bombay, became a major port under British control, who were responsible for connecting the various surrounding islands into one major city. Long before any of this however, these islands were home to large communities of cave dwelling Buddhist monks.

locations of Caves around Mumbai

Kanheri Caves (Map Location)

Just north of the densely populated Mumbai lie the Kanheri Caves in the protected area of Sanjay Gandhi National Park. In total, the area comprises 109 caves, containing Buddhist art and engravings spanning the 1st - 10th centuries CE. Evidence of all three vehicles of Buddhism can be found throughout the complex, with Mahayana and Vajrayana becoming dominant later in the monastery’s growth. By the 8th and 9th centuries, the complex functioned as a university as well, attracting adept yogis from all of India to study and practice. The name Kanheri is derived from its Sanskrit name Krishnagiri, meaning “black mountain.”

The most famous practitioner associated with this place is Rahulaguptavajra, known as the “Black Mountain Yogi.” The great master Arya Atisha Dipamkara is said to have traveled to the Kanheri Caves to study and receive initiation from this great master. Even the founder of the Shangpa Kagyu, Khyungpo Naljor, was recorded traveling all the way from Tibetan to these caves to receive teachings from Rahulagupta.

Like most cave complexes in the area, the main cave (cave no. 3) is a large pillared assembly hall with a stupa at the far end. Within this cave are several carvings of Buddhas and bodhisattvas, most notably Avalokiteshvara. Surrounding this are the living quarters for the monks, the dining hall, and a series of wells with rock cut canals to collect water during rainy season. The entire area is masterfully carved to control water flow during the monsoon season, avoiding flooding in the main quarters while still allowing water to flow freely through the site.

Kondivite Caves (Map Location)

This collection of 19 caves, known locally as the Mahakali Caves, date back to the 1st century BCE. Unlike the secluded Kanheri Caves, these rock cut dwellings are located in the middle of a densely populated neighborhood. As a result, major damage due to human encroachment effected these caves, leaving very little of the original sculptures intact and wall paintings intact. Though this monastery never achieved the same magnitude and renown as the Kanheri Caves, its earliest structures predate that of Kanheri. The local name comes from the nearby Hindu temple dedicated to Mahakali.

These caves are situated in the suburb of Andheri East in Mumbai. The best way to reach the caves from Mumbai is by taking the train from Andheri railway station or from the nearby bus lines. The caves are open daily from 9 am to 4 pm.

Elephanta Caves (Map Location)

The Elephanta Caves are the most well-known and frequently visited collection of caves in the Mumbai area. Like many sites around India, these caves are widely associated with Shiva, though were originally built as a Buddhist monastery during Buddhism’s peak popularity in India. Remnants of stupas dating back the the 2nd century BCE can be found on the island, belonging to one of the early schools of Buddhism. These remains can be found on what is called Stupa Hill. These stupas along with caves 6 and 7 are some of the only remains of what was once a rich Buddhist temple. Today, the most famous image of Elephanta is a rock cut sculpture of the Trimurti, the trinity of Bhrama, Vishnu and Shiva, personified as one three headed Shiva.

Unlike the other caves around Mumbai, the Elephanta Caves are still situated on an island, only accessible by ferry. There are two ferries to the island; one from Mubai’s famous Gateway of India in the Colaba area, and the other from the CBD Belapur Jetty in Navi Mumbai.