The Guru in West Sikkim

Introduction to Beyul DremOjong

In his search for secure places to practice the Dharma, Guru Rinpoché entered the valley of West Sikkim. While there, he determined the site is now known as Tashi Ding to be the spiritual heart of the valley, located in today's western region of the Indian state of Sikkim. During his stay, he made no converts and erected no buildings, but personally visited and consecrated every sacred spot in West Sikkim, establishing Tashi Ding as the spiritual center of the region. Also, as chronicled in the works of Lhatsün Namkha Jigmé Chenmo, Guru Rinpoché hid many treasure texts caves around Tashi Ding for future generations. West Sikkim is therefore also known as Beyul Dremojong, the Hidden Valley of Fruits.

Though the Mahaguru traveled to and blessed the land, it remained secret until the 13th century, when the great tertön Rigdzin Gödem, opened the hidden land. While Rigdzin Gödem is most known as the revealer of the treasure text known as Northern Treasure (Changter), his visionary guidance from Guru Padmasambhava extended these revelations into physical landscapes throughout the Himalayas. First entering Sikkim through the snow covered high northwest pass known as Chorten Nyima, Rigdzin Gödem opened the gate of Sikkim to the people of Tibet. He performed extensive rituals throughout the lands, connecting directly to the activity and blessings of Guru Rinpoché in the very places the Mahaguru previously consecrated.

Later, in 1646 the renowned treasure-revealer Lhatsün Namkha Jikmé (1597-1653) journeyed to Sikkim during his final years, at the behest of his gurus in Tibet. While there, he revealed the Accomplishing the Life-Force of the Vidyadharas (Rigzin Sokdrup) cycle, from which the now widely propagated smoke offering practice of Mountain Smoke Offering (Riwo Sangchö) emerged. This practice appeased the local spirits, removing all obstacles blocking the flourishing of the Dharma. In particular, it established a strong link to the teachings of the Great Perfection, ensuring that Sikkim would become a refuge particularly for the Dzokchen teachings and practitioners.

Drakar Tashi Ding and the Four Sacred Caves

Drakar Tashi Ding resembles the pistil of a lotus flower, with four surrounding caves akin to lotus petals. This symbolism was reaffirmed when Rigdzin Gödem visited the site, further solidifying its role as the spiritual cornerstone of Sikkim's most revered monastery. Shortly after arriving in Sikkim, Lhatsün Namkha Jikmé unveiled the Rigdzin Sokdrup cycle in the northern cave known as Lhari Rinchen Nyingpuk. During his sojourn at Tashi Ding, Lhatsün Namkha Jikmé erected the Thongdrol Chorten, the Stupa that Liberates Upon Sight, which continues to grace Tashi Ding with its sacred presence to this day.

How to get there

Drakar Tashi Ding is the name of both the monastery and the village it is located in. The village is situated some 40 kms by road from Gyalshing, via Legship, at an elevation of 1490m. It is a beautiful sight, framed against the mighty Khang-chen-dzonga. The gompa is located on a secluded conical hilltop, surrounded by forests and nestled between two rivers, the Rathong and the Rangeet.

By Road

As Sikkim has no railway and only one airport that was only recently opened for commercial flights, the main way to access Sikkim is by road. Buses, taxis, and private vehicles can be hired from the closest functional airport in Bagdora, West Bangal, to enter Sikkim. Taxis can be hired from most major towns of Sikkim to take you to Drakar Tashi Ding.

By Plane

Sikkim has only one very small airport in Pakyong which opened in 2018. All services to this airport were suspended shortly after its inception, and resumed in 2021, with only one airline, Spice Jet. There are direct flights to Pakyong from both New Delhi and Kolkata, though these flights are highly subject to cancelation due to weather.

By Train

There are no trains to the main sites of Sikkim, with the nearest train station to the region in Jalpaiguri around 125 km from Gyalshing.

While at Tashi Ding

Drakar Tashiding Monastery - map location

The first monastery was established here in 1641 by Sempa Chenpo Phuntsok Rinchen, an emanation of Guru Rinpoché. He build three temples on the site in the 17th century, including Maitreya shrine. During this time, Sempa Chenpo manifested many miraculous signs of accomplishment through his practice. His most well known activity was his long-life vase accomplishment, resulting in the spontaneous overflowing of liquid from the vase known as amrita. This vase is still preserved in the monastery. Every year on the first full moon of the lunar year, the vase is revealed, and the amrita liquid still spontaneously overflows, drawing many to witness this spectacular event.

Sacred Stupas - Map Location

Behind the temple is a stupa cluster. The most sacred chorten of Sikkim, the Thongwa Rangdrol, is situated here, and it is said that a mere glimpse of this chorten is enough to cleanse all sins and misdeeds. It was in Tashi Ding that the cremation of Kyapjé Jamyang Khyentse Chökyi Lodrö was performed and a stupa constructed by his own disciples, including Kyapjé Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche (1910-1991), to house his relics. It was later covered in gold-leaf by Orgyen Tobgyal Rinpoche in the 1990s. On the eastern side of the stupa cluster is a self-manifesting engraved image of Guru Rinpoche (you need to ask for the key to the small shrine that houses it.)

Shitro Cave

As one walks up towards the monastery (about half an hour), a little before reaching the top of the hill (where the monastery stands), a small path branches to the left and leads to a cave nearby. If going to the cave from the monastery, turn left just outside the monastery gates and follow the small path that leads you there. This cave of the Hundred Peaceful and Wrathful Deities is the place where Guru Rinpoché is said to have first meditated in Sikkim. There is a shrine to the Mahaguru, and a rock where he left his footprint.

Khandro Yeshe Tsogyal Cave

Nearby is another cave that is said to have belonged to Khandro Yeshe Tsogyal. At the entrance is a dark reddish substance described as “dakini blood” on the stone, together with some mysterious dakini writing.

Four Sacred Caves

Surrounding Tashi Ding in the four directions, the Four Sacred Caves of Sikkim blessed by Guru Rinpoché encircle the spiritual center and heart of Sikkim. These caves are:

• Sharchok Bephug, The Hidden Cave in the East

  This is believed to be the first cave that was blessed by Guru Padmasambhava in the area. It is a vast cavern, about a quarter of a mile in length, with a height that varies from 5 to 500 ft. The dark passageways have to be illuminated with flashlights as people come here to worship the spirits of the cave, and the cave itself is said to be associated with the ‘God of Purification’. It is also known as the abode of the “Peaceful White Deity,” containing many self-arisen images.

  Upon entering the cave, the figures of 42 Peaceful Deities can be seen on the right, and 69 Wrathful Deities on the left. Just inside the threshold lies the seat that was occupied by Guru Padmasambava. A few meters ahead, one can see the figure of a demoness emitting the elixir of life from her heart. As you move further into the cave, there is a shrine where the deities are said to reside.

  On the right hand side of the cave, one can see the self-arisen figure of a garuda (a winged deity). It is said that when this is seen by local spirits, it will cause them to disappear and depart to their own abodes. Above it resides Guru Padmasambava. It is believed that just being told of his presence there will cause the fulfillment of all one’s wishes. Guru Padmasambava himself promised that if lepers see him, they will be instantly cured. It is believed that whoever makes an effort to cleanse their sins in this place will overcome all illness and disease caused by malignant spirits, misdeeds, and other obstacles.

• Lho Khandro Sangphuk, the Secret Cave of the Dakini in the South

  This cave is associated with the dakini Vajravarahi, as well as being where Guru Padmasambhava meditated and spent time in retreat. It is nestled in a beautiful valley where hot springs flow, and one must trek down a steep embankment and cross a long, narrow footbridge to get there. It lies about 6 km from the sleepy hamlet of Reshi in the western pocket of Sikkim.

  Lho Khandro Sangphuk is said to be associated with the “God of Increasing Knowledge.”  It is believed to be the cave of longevity and increased knowledge. Here, all wishes for longevity, virtues and abundance will be fulfilled. Upon entering the cave one can see, on the ceiling, the lungs and heart of a demoness emitting the nectar of longevity. Immediately below is the vase of longevity surrounded by seven ritual offerings. Underneath the vase lie the remains of the demoness, including her head, arms and other parts. On the right of these are the figures of animals. Moving forward, one must negotiate twelve narrow obstacles. Passing over the first, one reaches the shrine hall of Guru Padmasambava, containing his whole body imprint. It is believed that making a pilgrimage to this sacred place will cleanse all sins and misdeeds committed during the present lifetime.

• Nub Dechen Phug, The Cave of Great Bliss in the West

  Nub-Dechén Phug, also known as the “Cave of Great Happiness,” is located near to Dzongri, a blissful welkin that is one of the preeminent trekking destinations of Sikkim. This sacred abode of Guru Padmasambhava is believed to be associated with the “God of Infinite Light.” According to Rigdzin Gödem, it is “a place for the accomplishment of a lifespan free of death.” It is believed that this cave, which is as big as a three-storied building, contains sacred images representing the body, speech and mind, the ritual objects, and the entirety of all the sutras and tantras translated in Tibet.

  Legend has it that treasure stores capable of feeding almost half the population of the world are also hidden here. Just by going to this cave, one can acquire “Supreme Higher Attainment.” Also at the main cave, there are two lesser caves of “Supreme Higher Attainments”  and three lesser caves of “Common Attainments.” In addition to these, there are numerous other large and small caves where enlightenment has been attained. To the right of the cave grows a fragrant medicinal tree, bearing many kinds of flowers and fruits that are believed to cure disease.

• Jhang Lhari Nyingpo, The Cave of the Heart of the Deity in the North

  This cave is considered to be the holiest of all sacred caves in Sikkim. Associated with the “God of Wrath,” Jhang Lhari Nyingpo can only be reached by a three-day trek from the holy town of Tashiding.

  The cave is associated with the application of wrathful activities. It has three caves facing towards the east. The cave in the south contains self-arisen figures surrounded by a pantheon of longevity deities. The cave in the north houses wrathful deities in their fearsome costumes. The cave in the east contains figures of eight fabulous horses of wealth. It is believed that visiting these will produce signs favorable to growth and spiritual realization.