Yarinak

Conquering the demons

at a glance

While practicing the yidam deity Vajrakilaya in a cave at Yarinak, Guru Rinpoché took on the fiercely wrathful form of Dükyi Shechen. The Mahaguru then wielded his kila-dagger to set ablaze a forest and thereby defeat enemies hostile to the Dharma, liberating them into the space of awareness.

the story

Far to the east of Kathmandu, beyond the rural hills, Yarinak, Slate Mountain Forest, lies in wait for the dedicated pilgrim. This cave and rocky cliff-face sheltered by the forest is where the Mahaguru retreated to practice Vajrakilaya, the yidam of enlightened activity.

Here, Guru Padmasambhava took the name Dükyi Shechen, Great Demon Slayer. The figure of Dükyi Shechen is well known — both for removing obstacles and for providing protection from them. Precisely such obstacles were brewing at that time in the land of the tirthikas—sworn enemies of the Dharma. Supported by fierce yaksha lords, they were assembling in a place known as the Sandalwood Forest.

In response to this threat to the welfare of beings, the Mahaguru’s kila-dagger flew of its own accord into the sky. Guru Rinpoché, as Dükyi Shechen, caught it with the vajra mudra, rolled it between his hands, and hurled it into the Sandalwood Forest. At the kila-dagger’s impact, the forest caught fire and burned down, its flames incinerating everything, even evaporating the lake at the heart of the forest. As soon as the fire burned out, the forest miraculously grew back, bigger and more beautiful than before. The tirthikas were destroyed and their dark yaksha lords reduced to dust.

It is still possible to visit the rocky caves where Guru Rinpoché practiced and to find remnants from his time there. An extraordinary site for connecting with the Mahaguru’s wrathful aspect, Yarinak is where he perfected the practices for eliminating obstacles to realization of the essence of the path.

Words from the Masters

The significance of this site is captured in the following work:

• Barché Lamsel - Chokgyur Dechen Lingpa

How to get there

Yarinak is located 80 km south-east of Kathmandu, past the sacred stupa of Namo Buddha, within the Kavre district, also known as Timal. The pine forest landscape is steep and hilly, with valleys cut deep by rivers. On a clear day, magnificent views of snow-capped Himalayan peaks delight the eyes. It is on one of these hillsides in particular, just below Timal’s town center, that we find a cave and isolated ledge studded with self-arisen forms and mantra syllables.

By Jeep

We recommend that you travel by jeep in a small group. Jeep taxis to Yarinak are offered by various travel organizations in Kathmandu. A jeep taxi can hold 5–6 people comfortably, and the ride will take about 3 hours. Be warned that the last 30 km is along a bumpy, unpaved road. Since it is difficult to find accommodation near Yarinak, we recommend that you leave from Kathmandu early in the morning and return on the same day.

Alternatively, Yarinak is becoming a popular side-trip for pilgrims travelling by private jeep to Maratika from Kathmandu. You can discuss with your travel agent about a visit during either the outgoing or return journey.

By Bus

From Kathmandu you can reach Yarinak by local bus. First, take a bus from Kathmandu to Banepa. From Banepa, buses leave for Timal twice daily, at 12 pm and 2 pm. Ask the driver to drop you at Yangpel School. From here you go south down the slope to the cave (see below). The dry lake is 2.7 km further on (a 30 min walk or 15 min drive from Yangpel school bus stop, past the village of Narayanthan). To return to Kathmandu, buses leave at 10 and 11am from the school bus stop. Because of the bus schedule, you will need to stay overnight at Yarinak. Ask the cave’s caretaker, Dutman Tamang, for help with accommodation. This will be a homestay.

From the Yangpel school bus stop, make your way south past several village houses and down the steps that lead directly to the Guru’s stone footprint. You will reach the cave a few meters below. After visiting the cave, you can return to the road and drive or walk the remaining 2.7 km from the school bus stop to the dry lake and monastery described below.

food and accommodation

Food options are very limited. There is one tea-shop near the bus stop, opposite Yangpel School. Other than this, small shops and tea-shops can be found 2 km further on, in Narayanthan village. Currently, there is no regular accommodation available, aside from homestays arranged by Dutman Tamang, the caretaker of Yarinak. There are now plans to build a guesthouse, which should be able to provide accommodation and food for groups up to ten.

WHILE AT THE MAIN SITE

When you get to Yarinak, you will eventually run into the caretaker, Dutman Tamang. He has been looking after the cave and surroundings since 2002. He helped to improve the path down to the cave, building the stairs and hand-rails, a project sponsored by Sangyum Sönam Chödrön, the consort of Kyapjé Tulku Urgyen Rinpoché and mother of Tsoknyi Rinpoché and Mingyur Rinpoché. Dutman Tamang is happy to talk to pilgrims and explain the symbolism of the stone formations in and around the cave. As mentioned above, he can also help you arrange food and accommodation as needed.

Yarinak Entrace - Map Location

As you walk down from the village above, you will be treated to vast views of the valley and hills.

Guru Rinpoche’s Boot

Amazingly, as you follow the path to the cave, you’ll find, coming out of the living stone, a full leg complete with boot—Guru Rinpoché emerging from the cliffside!

Guru Rinpoche CavE - Map Location

Be sure to look out for these stone formations:

• Tiger’s head, right above the entrance

• Drum, conch shell and trumpet, on your left as you enter

• Phurba or kila-dagger

• Sogshing (“tree of life-force”) at the very end of the cave

• Gargyen (“round ornament of the torma”)

The Lower Shrine Area

There is a small seating area that juts out from the cliff face, offering an incredible view of the valley below. Phakchok Rinpoché consecrated a new statue of Guru Rinpoché here during the Fire Monkey Year of 2016.

Look out for these objects naturally-arisen in the stone:

• Mala

• Stupa

• White kila-dagger, in the rock above the roof that protects the lower shrine

• Guru Rinpoche’s footprint, above the lower shrine

• Various sacred syllables

Beyond the main site

Guru Rinpoche Statue - Map Location

2.7 km (15 min drive) from Yangpel School bus stop, there’s a dry lake with a huge Guru Rinpoché statue on a pillar in the middle. Local people refer to this place by the line from Barché Lamsel – “Yaksha nagpo dul du log” (“You crushed dark yakshas into dust!”). Above the lake is a hill with a young pine forest. According to caretaker Dutman Tamang, the lake sometimes has some water, but mostly remains dry.

Arya Avalokiteshvara Dhyan Gompa - Map Location

To the northeast of the lake is a small temple named Arya Avalokiteshvara Dhyan Gompa. On the temple shrine are statues of Avalokiteshvara, Buddha Shakyamuni and Guru Rinpoché, all made by Lama Chödrup. Behind the gompa is a row of eight stupas dedicated to the main events of the life of Buddha Shakyamuni.

on the way to yarinak

Namo Buddha - Map Location

Namo Buddha, or Takmo Lüjin in Tibetan, can be found on the way to Yarinak. Namo Buddha is one of the most sacred sites in Nepal. If you go by jeep, consider visiting the site, either on the way to Yarinak or as you return. Namo Buddha marks the place where the Buddha, in one of his former lives, as prince Mahasattva, offered his body to a hungry tigress and her cubs. The tremendous merit of this extraordinary, selfless act created the auspicious causes and conditions for him to attain awakening in his next life as Buddha Shakyamuni. The stupa built here to commemorate this event is said to contain the bones and hair of the prince Mahasattva. The Namo Buddha Stupa is one of the three most important stupas in Kathmandu, the others being Boudha and Swayambhu. It is said to be highly meritorious to do a pilgrimage in one day to all three stupas, and circumambulate them.

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