Drak Yerpa

at a glance

Earlier in the Dharma’s first arrival to Tibet, King Songtsen Gampo is said to have spent time in retreat at the caves of Drak Yerpa, clearing away obstacles to the construction of the Rasa Trülnang Temple, more commonly known as the Jokhang, in Lhasa. Later, when the Mahaguru arrived, he practiced in retreat, hid terma treasures and further established Drak Yerpa as the vital axis of one of Tibet’s most sacred temples, the Jokhang.

the story

Dharma King Songtsen Gampo divined that Tibet was experiencing a series of enigmatic and detrimental events at the hands of malevolent spirits. In order to suppress these forces, it was crucial to establish a spiritual center somewhere auspicious. In a vision, Songtsen Gampo saw Drak Yerpa as the designated site for this purpose. With his queens, Bhrikuti and Wencheng, the king went to this predestined site and, on close examination, found many self-arisen images and syllables. Also, in the vicinity were numerous juniper trees, creating a natural habitat for the local deities. Thus the site’s sacredness was confirmed, and building could begin. Songtsen Gampo and his wives dedicated themselves wholeheartedly to the development of this potent site and, once the foundation had been laid, the king spent considerable stretches of time in the Chögyal Phuk—Dharma King’s Cave— deepening his spiritual practice and dispelling obstacles that might hinder the construction of the Rasa Trülnang temple.

Later, during the construction of Samyé monastery, the Mahaguru visited Drak Yerpa and chose to engage in retreat, particularly at Dawa Puk, the Moon Cave. Initially, the cave was relatively small. In a miraculous act to enlarge the cave, Guru Rinpoche thrust his katvanga trident into the the cave’s center, causing three distinct chambers to magically appear. The Mahaguru then entered the cave and spent seven months in retreat, leaving his body imprint on the solid rock as a sign of his presence. He also crafted a small kutsap, a likeness of himself, which he blessed so that it could grant liberation upon sight. Upon concluding his retreat, the Mahaguru placed this kutsap as his representative and primary sacred object on the shrine. Following this retreat, on many occasions the Mahaguru stressed to his disciples the importance of Drak Yerpa, greatly praising the blessings of this sacred site as one which could swiftly unlock the higher stages of realization. Upon the Mahaguru’s advice, generations of great masters have entered retreat at Drak Yerpa and likewise reaped great siddhis. Given Drak Yerpa’s immense blessings, many have recognized it as equal to Drak Yangdzong, a sacred site that truly embodies the Mahaguru’s awakened body.

Words from the Masters

Jamyang Khyentse Chökyi Lodrö’s Praise of Drak Yerpa

How to get there

Located less than 20 km northeast of Lhasa, Drak Yerpa (29° 44′ 52.2″ N, 91° 16′ 49.8″ E) is a short drive from Tibet’s capital, and can easily be visited as a day trip.

While at the main site

The narrow Yerpa valley lies on the north bank of the Kyichu River, east of Lhasa. As you ascend towards its upper regions, where multiple rivers meet, you will encounter Drak Yerpa, a majestic cliff studded with caves and wrapped around by a steep plateau. Once giant junipers and clusters of rhododendrons crowned a dense labyrinth of undergrowth, brushwood, and grass, valiantly battling against the desolation of the rocks. The rock formation in Yerpa resembles the seated figure of Tara, with her left leg extended and right leg bent inward. At her right breast is Tendrel Puk (Auspicious Cave), with Dawa Puk (Moon Cave) at her left. Additionally, a stream flows out from the hillside below, with unique healing properties for all four hundred and four types of ailments. Below the rock formation, towards the southeast, lies a tapered hill adorned with prayer flags referred to as Yerpa’s Lhari (Divine Hill), which serves as the dwelling place of the local guardian and continues in use as a charnel ground.

Amongst the many caves that together form the sacred number of one hundred and eight, Dharma King Songtsen Gampo stayed in the Chögyel Puk (Dharma King’s Cave), and the Mahaguru primarily in the Dawa Puk. Several disciples, such as Khandro Yeshe Tsogyal, Vairocana, Namkhé Nyingpo, Khön Lu’i Wangpo, and Gyalwa Chokyang, joined the Mahaguru and displayed great miracles as a result of their practice here. Later, Lhalung Pelkyi Dorjé hid here at Drak Yerpa after the assassination of King Langdharma. Later still, Drak Yerpa became the celebrated residence of Jowo Atisha—where this great siddha transmitted the teachings of both sutra and tantra to his heart disciples.

Next stop on The Journey: → Önphu Taktsang