Lhodrak Kharchu

Awakened Mind

at a glance

Long renowned as a potent gathering place of the dakinis, the caves of Lhodrak Karchu were blessed by the Mahaguru as the realm of Yangdak Heruka. This wrathful aspect of Akshobhya-Vajrasattva, embodiment of the awakened mind of the buddhas, thus permeates this magnificent cave complex.

the story

Yangdak Heruka, the wrathful form of Akshobhya-Vajrasattva, has the unique capacity to bring one to the profound stage of realization known as mahamudra vidyadhara. Guru Rinpoche received the transmission of Yangdak Heruka originally from the great mahasiddha Humkara. Through applying these teachings, the Mahaguru then attained the complete fruition of this practice at the Asura and Yangleshö Caves in Nepal.

Once the Mahaguru had accomplished this profound deity, he brought the associated teachings to Tibet, and chose the Lhodrak Karchu caves as a sacred site to be established and associated with Yangdak Heruka. Here, by practicing Yangdak Heruka one-pointedly, the Mahaguru not only introduced this powerful practice tradition, but also blessed the site as being identical to his awakened mind. During the Kagyé empowerments at Samyé Chimpu, Guru Rinpoché entrusted these teachings to Namkhé Nyingpo, whom he instructed to practice at Lhodrak Karchu, so that he too could reap the fruits of Yangdak Heruka. And his teacher Humkara traveled later to Tibet, where he served as spiritual adviser to King Mutik Tsenpo.

Words from the Masters

Changdak Tashi Topgyal’s Prayer to the King and Twenty-Five Disciples

Jamyang Khyentse Chökyi Lodrö’s Praise of Lhodrak Kharchu

How to get there

Lhodrak Karchu (28°05'27.0"N 91°07'08.3"E) is in Lhodrak County, cradled between two rivers, the Kuru-chu (‘Lhodrak Nub-chu’) and Tamzhol-chu (‘Lhodrak Shar-chu’) that converge beneath Karchu, north of the Bhutanese border. Below the Brahmaputra watershed, but above the Himalayan peaks spanning the Bhutanese border, Lhodrak is famed for its beauty and geographic seclusion. Due to dangerous flooding plan on visiting between spring, early summer, and autumn.

While at the main site

Chakpurchen Cave:

Guru Rinpoche is said to have tunneled through the mountain, creating a winding cavern, called Chakpurchen Cave (Great Iron Dagger Cave) where he stayed in dark retreat for seven years. An impression in the cave wall shows where Guru Rinpoche stabbed an iron dagger, hence the name. To the left of Chakpurchen are the caves of Namkhai Nyingpo where he attained liberation.

Kharchu Monastery:

Kharchu monastery overlooks the forested gorge of Chakpurchen cave. The monastery has housed many great practitioners including Namkhe Nyingpo, Vairocana, Yeshe Tsogyal, Shelkar Dorje Tsodrön, Gotsangpa, Nyangral Nyima Özer, Guru Chöwang, Melong Dorje and Drukchen Pema Karpo, the last two of whom established the temple and monastic housing of Kharchu Monastery.

Khomting Lhakang:

Nearby Kharchu monastery is Khomting Lhakang, one of the Emperor Songtsen Gampo's principal temples. This temple, one of many land-taming temples constructed by Songtsen Gampo, was built on the elbow of the supine ogress that lies beneath all of Tibet. The four trees surrounding the temple, are said to have been planted by Guru Chöwang in the 13th century. It was also in this temple that Nyangral Nyima Özer discovered the Kagye Deshek Düpa. However, unfortunately this statue has been destroyed.

Mawo Chok: 

Mawo Chok in north-eastern Lhodrak was the birthplace and residence Nyang Ral Nyima Özer.

Dowo Lung:

North-west of Karchu at Dowo Lung, close to Mawo Chok, was the residence of Marpa Lotsawa, Milarepa's main teacher, and the Sekar Gutok (28°11’08.20”N 90°49’16.87”E), the Nine-story Tower that Milarepa built. Dowolung Monastery is the original Kagyü foundation in Tibet, as it was here that Marpa translated many of the texts he brought from India and where he transmitted these teachings to his four closest students. Behind the ruins of Marpa’s home, called Podrang Marpa, are caves of Marpa, Milarepa, and Gampopa.

Layak Guru Lhakang:

To the north of Dowo Lung is Layak Guru Lhakang, also known as Samdrub Dewachenpo Temple, at Lhalung Monastery, built in the thirteen century by Guru Chöwang. It also served as his residence. Guru Chöwang was born in Lhodrak and began his education at a very young age, studying tantric cycles such as Śrī Heruka at only thirteen years old. He received bodhisattva vows from Sakya Pandita Kunga Gyeltsen at Nezhi Gangpo in Lhodrak. Guru Chöwang was vital in establishing certain standards for the growing treasure tradition, specifically that each treasure should have (1) Guru Yoga, (2) Dzogchen, and (3) Avalokiteśvara. Of his eighteen revealed treasure troves, the most famous is Lama Sangdü. As part of Lama Sangdü, Guru Chöwang revealed the Seven-Line Prayer, which quickly became the most famous invocation of Guru Rinpoche. He was teacher to Bharo Tsukdzin, a Newari Dzogchen master of Kathmandu, Menlungpa Mikyo Dorje, and Mani Rinchen of Katok.

Drak Sinmo Barje:

Drak Sinmo Barje or Sengeri is a cliff face along the road from Khomting to Benpa that shows the claw marks of the rock ogress who gave birth to the Tibetan race. Along this road a valley opens up, the Pode La pass, that bridges the border to Bhutan and leads to the sacred Guru Rinpoche site of Senge Dzong (see separate site description).

Senge Dzongsum:

Senge Dzongsum, one of the vital power-places of Guru Rimpoche, is located over the border in Mon, Eastern Bhutan.

Drubtso Pemaling:

Drubtso Pemaling lake cradled at the base of Mount Damchen Gara Nakpo was established by Guru Rinpoche as a meditation location. There is a cave somewhere overlooking the blue lake. Nearby are ruins of Pemaling Monastery, founded by Pema Lingpa. There is a waterfall said to conceal a hidden land within Mount Kulha Kangri. The lake is said to produce erie sounds and apparitions within its fog and mist, notably those of the ‘ox of the lake’ (tsolang).

Next stop on The Journey: → Yarlung Sheldrak