Senge Dzong

at a glance

Sengé Dzong, the Lion’s Fortress, is the cave complex blessed by the Mahaguru through the practice of Vajrakilaya, the wrathful aspect of Buddha Vajrasattva, establishing it as identical to his awakened activities. Following the Mahaguru’s advice, his consort Khandro Yeshé Tsogyal subsequently took Sengé Dzong as her main retreat hermitage. She endured great hardships there, and her unwavering commitment to the practice of Vajrakilaya bore fruit as she unlocked the higher stages of the path of awakening and eventually reaped great siddhis.

the story

The practice of Vajrakilaya is famous for being the most powerful for removing obstacles, bringing down troublesome spirits and binding them to one’s command, and purifying the spiritual pollution so prevalent in this age. The teachings on Vajrakilaya were in particular taught and spread by the vidyadhara Prabhahasti, one of the foremost mahasiddhas in the whole of India, who later greatly served Nalanda monastery in India. And so the Mahaguru too received the teachings initially from Prabhahasti.

For establishing a sacred site associated with Vajrakilaya, the Mahaguru chose the Sengé Dzong caves. There, by practicing Vajrakilaya one-pointedly, he not only introduced the practice tradition, but also blessed the site as being identical to his awakened activities. During the Kagyé empowerments at Samyé Chimpu, the Mahaguru entrusted the Vajrakilaya teachings in particular to Khandro Yeshé Tsogyal, subsequently instructing her to practice them at Sengé Dzong.

Taking this instruction to heart, the wisdom dakini sat unmovingly in the vajra posture at Sengé Dzong, unperturbed by all obstacles, just as Buddha Shakamuni sat in Bodh Gaya and the Mahaguru at the Asura Cave. Deeply immersed in the practice of Vajrakilaya, the wisdom dakini was able to overcome all obstacles, letting them subside like clouds after a storm, and thus she reaped the crystal-clear sky of accomplishment. The terrors that had plagued the land were instantly transformed into the most delightful situations: timely rains, bountiful harvests, healthy animals, and healthy people. It is said, “When you are able to remove all obstacles, there remains no doubt that all siddhis will come.” Indeed, in this place, Khandro Yeshé Tsogyal had attained her highest level of realization to date. The demons and spirits who had tested her came forth and pledged their support, offering their life force and vowing to safeguard her teachings and vanquish her enemies. The locals too approached her in admiration, requesting that she become their protector and teacher. Khandro Yeshé Tsogyal thus emerged completely transfigured from Sengé Dzong and from her the retreat, poised to further her activity for the welfare of all.

Mönmo Tashi Kyidren, the activity manifestation of Vajravahari, was born in the Mön region of Bhutan. She was the daughter of a local King. Kyidren met Yeshe Tsogyal when the latter was meditating in Senge Dzong in northeastern Bhutan. Having great faith in Khandro Yeshé Tsogyal, Kyidren visited her regularly with offerings of food and drink. Her offerings were accepted with great joy, and it was not long before Kyidren became another of her disciples. Over the span of her stay at Sengé Dzong, Yeshe Tsogyal gave Kyidren many teachings and empowerments. For auspiciousness, she changed her student’s name from Kyidren (She who Drives Hounds) to Tashi Kyidren (Propitious Guide of All). Later, when Yeshe Tsogyal concluded her retreat at Senge Dzong in extraordinary fashion, Tashi Kyidren’s father realized what an exceptional being she was, and gave his permission for his daughter to go with her and leave. This is how Tashi Kyidren of Mön joined Khandro Yeshe Tsogyal on her enlightened quest. Not long after this, seeing that Mönmo Tashi Kyidren showed great potential, Yeshe Tsogyal introduced her to Guru Rinpoche at Önpu Taktsang.

Words from the Masters

Changdak Tashi Topgyal’s Prayer to the King and Twenty-Five Disciples

Jamgön Kongtrul Lodrö Thayé’s Prayer Summarizing Khandro Yeshé Tsogyal’s Life and Liberation

How to get there

Senge Dzong, located at an altitude of 3,000m, is a three-day walk from Lhuentse in Eastern Bhutan. It is one of eight dzongs in the region; the others are Rinchen Dzong, Tsemo Dzong, Gawa Dzong, Dulwa Dzong, Namkha Dzong, Drakri Dzong and Pema Dzong.

The drive from Thimpu to Bumthang takes 6-8 hours (271.6 km). Currently, there are regular road blockades due to construction work, so it is advisable to check for in advance for blocked locations and timings. You can spend the night in Bumthang, where rooms can be booked in advance.  

To enter Senge Dzong a permit is required, available at Lhuntse Dzong. From Bumthang to Lhuntse is a 5-6 hour drive. Before reaching Lhuntse you will pass through Mongar (around 4 hour from Bumthang) where you can also stay overnight. In Lhuntse itself there are few hotels, where bookings can be made in advance. 

The starting point for the hike to Senge Dzong is at Khoma, a 30 minute drive from Lhuntse. Khoma has a small temple or lhakhang called Sengye Loday, where Guru Rinpoche is said to have practiced; the village itself is said to always be home to each reincarnation of the khandro taken by Guru Rinpoche as a consort while practicing there. Khoma is also widely known for its handmade kiras, traditional Bhutanese dresses.

While at the main site

Khomagang is the first stop on the trek to Senge Dzong, about a 9 hour walk from the start. Here the path becomes more difficult, and horses can be rented to carry heavier necessities and camping equipment. 

The next stop is a small guesthouse in Thangkarmo, after another 9 hour walk. The trail follows the Khomachu river, crossing over manmade log bridges. 

The final section of the walk is about 5 hours to Senge Dzong. Stone gates mark the entrance to the dzong, opening onto a spacious and spectacular valley. There are eight dzongs that make up this area, Senge Dzong being the most famous as the cave where Guru Rinpoche and Yeshe Tsogyal practiced together.

Next stop on The Journey: → Yarlha Shampo