Samye Chimpu

Awakened Speech

at a glance

Samye Chimpu is widely praised as the premier residence and retreat site of Guru Padmasambhava himself, over the course of his time in Tibet. Located in close proximity to Samye, it served as an ideal residence for the Mahaguru during the construction of Samye monastery. It was at Chimpu that the Mahaguru initiated his closest students, known as the Twenty-Five Disciples, into the Kagyé mandala, and transmitted to them countless teachings and practices. In particular, the Mahaguru recognized the Chimpu caves as vital for safeguarding and maintaining the blessings of Samye Monastery.

the story

Soon after he was welcomed to the Drakmar Valley by King Trisong Detsen, Guru Padmasambhava surveyed the area for a suitable retreat place, one that could become his personal residence. Intuitively, the Mahaguru was drawn to the ancient burial ground of Chimpu and its associated caves, high above the foundations where Samye Monastery was to be built. Although in the vicinity of Samye monastery, these caves provided ample seclusion from the day-to-day business of its construction, and so the Mahaguru settled here, spent extended periods in retreat, and taught and transmitted the Dharma to his students in myriad ways. In particular, it was at Chimpu that the Mahaguru initiated his closest students, known as the Twenty-Five Disciples, into the Kagyé practice and transmitted to them countless teachings and practices.

Among the Mahaguru’s many retreat sites, the Chimpu caves became especially connected with the Mahaguru’s awakened speech. Here, Guru Rinpoche entered retreat focusing on Hayagriva, also known as Padma Heruka, for three months and three days. Hayagriva emerges as the wrathful form of Amitabha, Lord of the Lotus Family who embodies the speech of all buddhas. Thus, Hayagriva’s special qualities are related to magnetizing, for he greatly enhances the power of speech, enabling the practitioner to become both eloquent and persuasive. The Mahaguru received the transmission of Hayagriva in full from the great vidyadhara Nagarjuna while in India, and chose the Chimpu caves as the place to establish the practice in Tibet. By means of empowerment, teachings, and oral transmission, Guru Rinpoche entrusted the practice of Hayagriva to his disciples, while rendering the site itself identical to his awakened speech. The Mahaguru entrusted these teachings on Hayagriva in particular to Gyalwa Chokyang, who later practiced at Chimpu, accomplishing the great siddhi of magnetizing wrath.

Just as the Sitavana charnel ground has served as one of the main sites for revealing and transmitting the Vajrayana in India, the transmission of the essence of the Mahaguru’s realization had it source at Samye Chimpu, earning it a legacy of praise and pilgrimage as one of Tibet’s most sacred sites. What began at that time has inspired a thousand-year long tradition, where many of the greatest Tibetan masters have likewise joined the disciples of the Mahaguru and entered into retreat at these sites. This activity has led to profound realization and extraordinary revelations of treasures and teachings, and the selfless upholding lineage, teachings, and traditions of Guru Padmasambhava.

Words from the Masters

Tulku Zangpo Drakpa The Prayer Requested by Nanam Dorje Dudjom

Changdak Tashi Topgyal’s Prayer to the King and Twenty-Five Disciples

Rigdzin Jigme Lingpa’s Guide to Samye Chimpu

Chokgyur Dechen Lingpa’s Barche Lamsel

Jamyang Khyentse Wangpo’s A Beautiful and Wondrous Udumbara Garland

How to get there

The caves of Samye Chimpu (29°22'47"N 91°33'9"E) are located at top of the valley running parallel and to the northeast of the Samye Valley, about 13 km away from Samye. Perched high on the mountain, they overlook the valley of Samye. Allow the day to hike between caves. A hike from Samye Monastery to the Chimphu caves usually takes between four to five hours up and three hours down. We recommend you to find a local truck or hire a vehicle that can take you part of the way.

If you wish you can also continue to hike up the mountain behind the Chimpu caves for about 3 hours to the top of the mountain. From there you will have a wonderful panorama view of the Yarlung Tsangpo Valley and possibly see several snow-covered peaks of the Himalaya in the distance.

While at the main site

Cliff of the Hum Syllable

From the Chimphu caves one can see to the east the cliff from an avalanche began and was averted back to by Guru Rinpoche. There, pilgrims may see the Hung Syllable, with which Guru Rinpoche blessed the site. The stupa of Longchenpa, which you can visit, was placed into the U-vowel of the Hung syllable. Nearby is a stupa consecrated by the third Karmapa, Rangjung Dorje, and another known to be frequented by Nupchen Sangyé Yeshé.

The Zangdokpalri Crag

Several retreat caves are located in the about 15 m high crag on the western side of the valley. At its bottom you will find a small shrine covering a rock with Guru Rinpoche headprint. Above it is the Drönme Phuk, the Butterlamp cave.

The Sangchen Metok Phuk

To the right of the Drönme Phuk, lies the Sangchen Metok Phuk, the Great Secret Flower Cave. It is this cave, in which Jikme Lingpa stayed in retreat and received three visions of Longchenpa, who transmitted the entire Longchen Nyingtik teachings to Jikme Lingpa.

The Lower and Upper Nyangphuk

To the right of the Drönme Phuk you will also find the Lower Nyang Phuk. Together with the Upper Nyang Phuk, these are the caves in both King Trisong Detsen and Nyang Tingdzin Zangpo stayed in retreat after having received the Nyingtik teachings from Vimalamitra.

Above these caves you will find the cave in which Guru Rinpoche transmitted the Khandro Gongdü teachings to his disciples. Further up?, you will find a rock in which Guru Rinpoche left a 4 m long foot print, when he flew away to visit his consort Yeshe Tsogyal, who was staying in retreat at Yarlung Shelkar. And, on the south side of the Zangdokpalri Crag, you will find the Upper Nyangphuk.

Tamdrim Phuk

The Tamdrim Phuk, ‘the cave of Hayagrīva,’ in which Gyalwa Chokyang accomplished his yidam Hayagrīva, lies about 500 m below the main Chimphu area. Nearby is a tree to which pilgrims tie stones for luck.

Caves of Guru Rinpoche’s Disciples

Above the Zangdokpalri Crag, you will find the caves of Ma Rinchen Chok, Shubu Pelseng and Yeshe Tsogyal. In the cave, in which Yeshe Tsogyal practiced, you will find her handprint in the rock. Around them are several more caves named after the disciples of Guru Rinpoche, who practiced in them.

Drakmar Keutsang and Bairo Phuk

A new temple has been built enclosing both the Drakmar Keutsang and the Bairo Phuk.

Drakmar Keutsang

Drakmar Keutsang Cave is the heart of the Chimphu caves, as it was the main retreat cave of Guru Rinpoche. This was the cave from which Guru Rinpoche gave the empowerments for the Eight Kagye deities, as well as many other transmissions, to the King and the Twenty-Five Disciples. At the entrance of the Keutsang cave is the rock on which Princess Pema Sel’s body was placed, when Guru Rinpoche revived and transmitted the Khandro Nyingtik teachings to her. An imprint of Pema Sel’s body remained in the rock. Close by is a stone that is said to have been brought here from the Śītavana charnel ground, from which pilgrims can receive a blessing. 

Bairo Phuk

On the western side of the temple is a passageway to the Bairo Phuk or Cave. This was the personal meditation cave of both Vairocana and Longchenpa.

The Upper Caves

The upper caves lie about another 30 min. hike above the Drakmar Keutsang cave temple. Here you will find another set of three caves in which Guru Rinpoche, Yeshe Tsogyal and Acharya Sale (Yeshe Tsogyal’s consort) practiced. This meditation cave of Yeshe Tsogyal was her main retreat cave in Chimphu.

Longchen Gukar Phuk

Guru Rinpoche remained in this cave for three months, during which time he hid many termas here. Later, several of Guru Rinpoche’s disciples practiced in this cave, in particular Nanam Dorje Düdjom.

Next stop on The Journey: → Drak Yangdzong