Önphu Taktsang
“On the tenth day of the ox month, master and disciples confer,
And in the centre and on the borders of the land of snows you conceal millions of terma troves.
With these treasures you safeguard what remains of the teachings, all with your constant kindness—
All-powerful Dorje Drolö, to you we pray.
Grant your blessing so that sudden misfortune, like untimely death, never befalls us,
And as soon as we transfer to the next life, we are born in the pure realm of Great Bliss,
And in the paradise of Lotus Light, in your very presence, Guru,
And become a source of limitless benefit to living beings.”
at a glance
It was at Önphu Taktsang that Khandro Yeshe Tsogyal introduced Mönmo Tashi Kyidren to the Mahaguru. Guru Rinpoche then guided and matured Mönmo Tashi Kyidren, and several of his other main disciples, through the mandala of Vajrakilaya. At the culmination of their practice, Guru Rinpoche assumed the extremely wrathful form of Guru Dorje Drolö (Wild Vajra Wrath).
the story
And so it was, much later, that, having attained great siddhis through her diligent practice of Buddha Amitayus in Paro Taktsang, Khandro Yeshe Tsogyal, accompanied by her devoted disciples, joyfully journeyed to Önphu Taktsang where the Mahaguru was in residence.
It was at this time that Khandro Yeshé Tsogyal formally introduced Mönmo Tashi Kyidren, one of her most cherished and trusted disciples, to Guru Rinpoche. On this significant occasion, recognizing her remarkable qualities, Guru Rinpoche immediately appointed Tashi Kyidren as his spiritual consort for Vajrakilaya practice. Right there and then, the Mahaguru initiated the assembled group of his closest disciples to the sacred mandala of Vajrakilaya.
The Mahaguru then invited his trusted disciples to join him in the practice of Vajrakilaya. The results exceed all expectations, the disciples quickly reaping profound siddhis. As the pinnacle of their spiritual discipline, the divine beings of the Vajrakilaya mandala materialized directly before the entire gathering. Guru Rinpoche took on the immensely fierce manifestation of Dorje Drolö (Guru Vajra Wrath). Mönmo Tashi Kyidren shape-shifted into a tigress, while Khandro Yeshe Tsogyal assumed the form of his sacred companion, Ekajati. Remaining absorbed in the profound meditative state of Vajrakilaya, Guru Rinpoche and his consorts radiated numerous embodiments of themselves, which they dispatched in all directions to subdue any present and future obstacles.
All those present having successfully and profoundly overcome all obstacles, the Mahaguru generously gave them the initiation and transmission of Buddha Amitayus, along with other associated practices. Then he sent Khandro Yeshe Tsogyal and Lalhung Pelkyi Sengé, her destined spiritual consort from Uru, into retreat at Önphu Taktsang. As a result of their dedicated retreat, an extraordinary event unfolded. Buddha Amitayus himself appeared before them in physical form, as he had to the Mahaguru and Lhacham Mandarava at Maratika, bestowing upon them the blessing of eternal life. With remarkable ease, they entered the ranks of the immortal vidyadharas.
How to get there
Önphu Taktsang can be reached en route to the Won Chö Valley from the Gyama Valley. There is also a road leading into the Won Chö Valley, from which it is a short walk up to Önphu Takstang.
While at the main site
Located at the head of the Ön river, just below the natural divide of a lofty pasture, where mountain passes lead down to Samye monastery, there lies a sanctuary famously known as Önphu Taktsang. To reach this sacred site, one must embark on a day’s journey from Dikna, the final village in the upper Ön region. The main cave, Khandro Tsokhang (Assembly Hall of the Dakinis), nestles beneath a group of boulders on the south bank of the river, not far from the Domdom pass. Additionally, there is another cave of significance here, the Zimpuk Gongma (Upper Meditation Cave of the Guru), in which the Mah- aguru practiced in retreat. This cave offers breathtaking views of the glacial lake of Taktsang Lhatso (Life-Force Lake of Taktsang).
Beyond the main site
TakTsang Lhatso
South from Önphu Taktsang is a trail that leads to the life-force lake for the site, known as Takstang Lhatso.