Zhotö Tidro
“When engaged in secret practice with the Lady Tsogyal
You opened the secret door of Body, Speech, and Mind according to the lineage of oral instructions.
Urgyen, you who ripen and liberate disciples, I remember you now,
And pray to you, O Precious One of Uddiyana:
Grant us empowerment, bestow your blessings!”
at a glance
It was in the midst of Samyé’s construction that Khandro Yeshé Tsogyal became the sublime spiritual consort of Guru Padmasambhava. The noble lady quickly mastered the Dharma as presented by her teacher, and was en route to become one of the most realized of Tibetans. However, evil-minded officials disapproved of their relationship and demanded that the couple should be expelled from the country. So as not to cause any further obstacles for the Dharma King, Guru Rinpoche and Yeshe Tsogyal agreed to comply with the demands, but only as a show. Instead Guru Rinpoche then settled at Zhotö Tidro, where he transmitted the instructions of Atiyoga, the very pinnacle of the Buddhadharma, to Khandro Yeshe Tsogyal, his foremost disciple.
the story
The King’s wicked court officials were unrelenting in their demands: Guru Padmasambhava had to go, as did the wisdom consort, Khandro Yeshé Tsogyal. However, Dharma King Trisong Detsen had received his answer; he knew that if he offered gold for their journey into exile, the pair would in fact remain, albeit in the secrecy of retreat. So the Mahaguru and his consort received the royal command at their residence in Yamalung. They came down from the mountain in full view of the watching ministers, seemingly bound for somewhere beyond the kingdom’s borders. Instead of leaving Tibet, however, the two made their way to the caves of Zhotö Tidro, far to the northeast of Samye. Rather than exile, they would enter retreat.
Thus, Guru Rinpoche used this apparent obstacle as an opportunity to impart further guidance to Khandro Yeshe Tsogyal on the most cherished of teachings—the innermost heart essence of the awakened mind, the priceless Nyingtik (Heart Essence) teachings. Yeshé Tsogyal was now blossoming as a wisdom dakini, a lineage holder of the heart of the Dharma.
Words from the Masters
Nyangral Nyima Özer Prayer Recalling the Life and Liberation
Jamgön Kongtrul Lodrö Thayé The Tambura’s Yearning Song of Devotion
How to get there
Zhotö Tidro (30.1536146, 92.1665408), also known as Terdrom, is located around 15 km north of Drikung Til Monastery, the main seat of the Drikung Kagyu. Part of Maizhokunggar County, the site is roughly 150 km from Lhasa, around a 3 hour drive to the east of the capital city. From Til Monastery, one can take a jeep up the road leading into the Shorongchu Valley.
Accommodations
While it is possible to reach Tidro as a day trip from Lhasa, there are rooms at the Shambala Hotel on the way to the site, a short drive south of the nunnery. Rooms are basic, decorated in Tibetan style, and the hotel has its own hot springs. There is no heating in the rooms.
While at the main site
Though the site is primarily a retreat area for the Drikung Kagyu, Guru Rinpoche and Yeshe Tsogyal’s cave is still reachable by trail, north into the valley. The trail begins in the lower area, where one will come across a hot spring and a nunnery. Be advised that it takes several hours to reach the upper Guru Rinpoche cave from the lower hot springs area. The site is also connected to Dangma Lhundrup Gyaltsen, a Dzogchen master associated with the transmission of the Vima Nyingtik. It was here that the great master is said to have attained rainbow body.