Paro Taktsang
“At the Tiger’s Lair, in the cave called ‘Fulfilment of the Lion’s Wishes’, ༔
You subjugated malicious tirthikas, maras and damsi demons; ༔
In power-places, amid snow and rock, you hid the great termas, ༔
Gazing in compassion on sentient beings still to come in this degenerate age: ༔
To Dorjé Drolö Tsal, we pray! ༔
To the Lotus-born Guru of Orgyen, we pray! ༔”
at a glance
Paro Taktsang is central among the thirteen caves blessed by the Mahaguru as Dorjé Drolö (Wild Vajra Wrath). In this formidable form, the Mahaguru possessed the power to conquer the fiercest demons and shatter even the strongest conceptual thoughts. It was in this unique manifestation that he bestowed his blessings upon Paro Taktsang, subduing the local spirits and hiding terma treasures. Taktsang Cave also served as the site where the Mahaguru accomplished the practice of Jikten Chötö (Worldly Offering and Praise).
the story
As a result of successfully accomplishing Vajrakilaya at Önphu Taktsang (Tigress’ Lair of the Ön Valley) Guru Rinpoche transformed, along with his disciples. The Guru himself assumed the fiercely wrathful form of Guru Dorjé Drolö, while Mönmo Tashi Kyidren transformed into a tigress, and Khandro Yeshe Tsogyal appeared as Dorje Drolö’s consort, Ekajati. Immersed in the profound meditative absorption of Vajrakilaya, Guru Rinpoche and his consorts emanated countless forms identical to themselves, sending them in all directions. One of these emanations, known as the wrathful Blue-Black Vajrakila, arrived at Paro Taktsang.
There, this emanation of Guru Rinpoche, along with the consorts, proceeded to subdue and bind to oath all the gods, mamos, demons, and spirits of all eight classes that roamed the lands of Mön, Nepal, India, and other such untamed regions to the south. Through this act, they eradicated all malevolence from spirits and prepared the ground for the profound treasures that would be concealed at Paro Taktsang.
Not long after, the Mahaguru, accompanied by Khandro Yeshe Tsogyal, returned to the sacred site of Paro Taktsang. While journeying through the Himalayas, blessing the land and concealing terma treasures, the couple had arrived at the hidden valley of Beyul Khenpa Lung (Hidden Valley of the Artemisia), near the sacred site of Sengé Dzong. There, the pair transformed once again into the forms of Dorjé Drolö and Ekajati, and miraculously flew to the sacred grounds of Paro Taktsang. During this visit, they spent time in retreat, concealing numerous terma treasures and enlisting the local spirits as guardians.
Taktsang Cave also served as the site where the Mahaguru accomplished the practice of Jikten Chötö (Worldly Offering and Praise). This particular practice brought a unique ability to overpower and bind unruly and arrogant spirits. Alongside the practice of Vajrakilaya, the Mahaguru relied extensively through- out his journey on this practice of Jikten Chötö to subdue and bind these spirits.
The teachings on Jikten Chötö were originally revealed at the Sitavana charnel ground by the vidyadhara Rombuguhya Chandra and Guru Padmasambhava. Upon arriving in Tibet, the Mahaguru chose the Paro Taktsang Cave as the place to establish as a sacred site associated with Jikten Chötö. Through his own dedicated practice of Jikten Chötö there, he not only introduced the practice tradition but also sanctified the site as a place of accomplishment for the Kagyé deities and in which to subdue arrogant spirits and bind them under oath. During the Kagyé empowerments at Samye Chimpu, the Mahaguru specifically entrusted the teachings of Jikten Chötö to Langchen Palkyi Sengé, sending him to Paro Taktsang, where he diligently applied himself in the practice.
Words from the Masters
Tulku Zangpo Drakpa The Prayer Requested by Nanam Dorje Dudjom
Changdak Tashi Topgyal’s Prayer to the King and Twenty-Five Disciples
Jamgön Kongtrul Lodrö Thayé’s Prayer Summarizing Khandro Yeshé Tsogyal’s Life and Liberation
How to get there
The Paro Valley in western Bhutan is believed to be one of the first valleys in Bhutan to have received the influence of Buddhism. Beginning as an arid gorge at a point named Chuzom, ‘where the rivers meet’ the valley gradually opens up until it reaches its widest point, where the airport is located. Taktsang (27°29'30.8"N 89°21'48.5"E) is about a fifteen-minute drive north of Paro airport (15 km). Taktsang itself is perched 900 m above the floor of the Paro Valley, on the top of a cliff. The route is not difficult to find, as there is only one road that runs through Paro. Following this road through town one passes several landmarks such as Kyichu Lhakhang (27°26'28.1"N 89°22'33.0"E). Several kilometers past Kyichu Lhakhang one catches a first glimpse of Taktsang Monastery, a magnificent structure surrounding the practice cave of Guru Rinpoche, that looks as though it is part of the cliff face.
While at the main site
Taktsang consists of several temples, all of which share the name Taktsang.
The first temple complex is called Taktsang Pelphug. This is the most popular of the different complexes, and contains the famous cave where Guru Rinpoche meditated. Guarding this cave is a statue of the wrathful Dorje Drolö surrounded by Vajrakīlaya murals. The cave itself is concealed by a carved wooden grille that is only opened once a year, unless there are special circumstances.
The second temple is located above the first. Also dedicated to Guru Rinpoche, this temple contains an extraordinary statue that is said to have spoken when first brought to the site. Following this, this temple is popularly referred to as “The Temple of That Speaking Guru Statue.”
The third temple, higher up, is even larger than the second temple. It contains depictions of deities from the Gongdü and Phurba cycle.
These first three temples are all in the same building. In a separate building but in the same complex are several more temples. Beyond these, there are three other complexes located above Tasktsang Pelphug. These are Taktsang Ugyen Tsemo, Taktsang Oezergang and Taktsang Zangdopelri. In total there are 10 temples, but those higher up are not accessible to the public.